Condrieu AOC
Permitted Varieties
Condrieu AOC
Overview
Condrieu is the spiritual home of Viognier and one of France’s most distinctive white wine appellations, producing intensely aromatic, full-bodied wines from steep granite terraces overlooking the Rhône River. Established in 1940, this tiny Northern Rhône appellation (just 200 hectares) was nearly extinct in the mid-20th century but has experienced a remarkable revival. Condrieu represents the benchmark for Viognier worldwide—opulent wines with exotic aromas of apricot, peach, and white flowers, combined with a lush, oily texture that has inspired plantings from California to Australia.
Geography & Climate
Location: Northern Rhône Valley; south of Lyon; right bank
Size: ~200 ha (500 acres)—TINY
Elevation: 150-350m (490-1,150 ft)
Climate: Continental with Mediterranean transition
- Growing Degree Days: 1,600-1,900 GDD
- Rainfall: 700-900mm
- Exposure: South to southeast (critical)
The Terraces:
- Steep granite slopes (30-60° inclines)
- Hand cultivation required
- “Côte Brûlée” (burnt slope) = sun-baked
- Terraces rebuilt from abandoned sites
Soil Types:
- Granite (primary)
- Mica-schist (mineral complexity)
- Sandy decomposed granite (arzelle)
Key Characteristic: Steep granite + southern exposure = Viognier’s ultimate expression.
Wine Style
Viognier (100%)
Character: Opulent, aromatic, exotic
- Apricot, peach, nectarine
- White flowers, honeysuckle
- Lush, oily texture
- Full body (13-14.5% ABV typical)
- Low acidity
Winemaking Notes:
- Harvest at optimal ripeness (critical)
- Temperature-controlled fermentation
- Oak aging (many producers)
- Some lees contact
- Mostly dry; rare late-harvest
Classification & Regulations
AOC Requirements:
| Parameter | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Variety | 100% Viognier |
| Yields | Max 37 hl/ha (low) |
| Min ABV | 11.5% |
| Style | Dry (rare exceptions) |
Quality Control: Low yields + difficult viticulture = naturally limited production.
History
Timeline:
- Ancient: Viognier likely arrived with Romans
- Medieval: Condrieu reputation established
- 18th-19th century: Peak prosperity
- 1936: Near extinction (~8 ha remained)
- 1940: AOC established
- 1960s-70s: Revival begins
- Today: ~200 ha; global inspiration
The Near-Death: By 1965, only 8-12 hectares remained; young Georges Vernay began revival.
Georges Vernay: “The Pope of Condrieu”—saved appellation from extinction.
Key Constraints & Production Notes
Viticulture Challenges:
- Extreme slopes (helicopter treatments)
- Erosion
- Low yields (Viognier characteristic)
- High labor costs
- Terraces require constant maintenance
Winemaking:
- Harvest timing critical (narrow window)
- Risk of over-ripeness
- Temperature control essential
- Oak integration (barrel fermentation common)
Aging Potential:
- Peak: 2-6 years (most)
- Best examples: 8-12 years
- Generally drink young; loses aromatics
Viognier Character Development
The Ripeness Puzzle
Under-ripe: Green, bitter, unpleasant Optimal: Apricot, peach, floral (narrow window) Over-ripe: Flat, blowsy, oily without complexity
Challenge: Viognier must be picked at precise ripeness; days matter.
Notable Producers
Quality Benchmarks:
- Georges Vernay: Savior of appellation
- E. Guigal: Condrieu “La Doriane”—widely available benchmark
- Yves Cuilleron: Multiple cuvées; consistent excellence
- André Perret: Single-vineyard specialist
- François Villard: Quality range
- Domaine du Monteillet: Family estate
- Pierre Gaillard: Northern Rhône specialist
- René Rostaing: Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu
Château-Grillet
The Single-Estate AOC
Unique Status: Château-Grillet is a separate AOC (since 1936) entirely within Condrieu
- Single estate (~3.5 ha)
- One of France’s smallest AOCs
- Same grape, different appellation
- Historic prestige
Common Challenges
Viognier Difficulties
- Cause: Variety is low-yielding, fickle.
- Risk: Uneven ripening; vintage variation.
- Response: Meticulous viticulture; selective harvesting.
Price Pressure
- Cause: High production costs; tiny area.
- Risk: High prices limit accessibility.
- Response: Value in other Viognier regions (but quality benchmark here).
Food Pairing
Classic Matches:
- Lobster, crab
- Rich fish (turbot, monkfish)
- Foie gras
- Asian cuisine (Thai, Vietnamese)
- Creamy chicken dishes
Serving: 12-14°C; fuller whites need less chill
References
-
INAO (2025). “Condrieu AOC Cahier des Charges.” Link
-
Livingstone-Learmonth, J. (2005). “The Wines of the Northern Rhône.” WorldCat
-
Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012). “Wine Grapes.” Publisher Link
Last Updated: January 11, 2026
Data Sources: INAO, Rhône Wine Official
Research Grade: Technical reference