Aligoté

Quick Facts

Berry Color: Green-yellow
Skin Thickness: Thin
Ripening: Early
Vigor: High
Yield: High
Acidity: Very high
Famous For: Kir cocktail base

Overview

Aligoté is Burgundy’s “other” white grape, long overshadowed by Chardonnay in the Bourgogne AOC but capable of producing crisp, refreshing wines with distinctive high acidity. Best known as the traditional base for Kir (white wine with crème de cassis), Aligoté has found new respect from quality-focused producers in Burgundy and retains significant importance in Eastern Europe. The variety’s only communal appellation is Bouzeron, where it produces wines of genuine character that challenge its second-class reputation. For enologists, Aligoté represents an important study in high-acid white wine production and the potential for undervalued varieties to achieve quality recognition.

Etymology and History

Name Origin

Aligoté: Etymology uncertain; possibly “alicant” related

Regional Names: Various historical synonyms

Historical Development

Ancient Burgundian cultivation
Traditional secondary variety (after Chardonnay)
Kir cocktail popularization (20th century)
Quality renaissance in Bouzeron
Eastern European importance

The Kir Connection

Inventor: Canon Félix Kir (Mayor of Dijon)

Recipe: Aligoté + crème de cassis

Impact: Both fame and typecasting

Modern: Quality wines transcend cocktail role

Viticulture

Vine Characteristics

Growth Habit: Vigorous; spreading

Leaf Shape: Medium; three to five lobes

Cluster: Medium; compact

Berry: Small; thin-skinned

Growing Requirements

Climate: Cool continental; Burgundy-type

Soil Preference: Limestone, clay-limestone

Site: Often lesser sites (historically)

Training: Various Burgundian methods

Phenological Stages

Stage	Timing
Bud break	Mid-April
Flowering	Late May-early June
Véraison	Early August
Harvest	Early September

Site Allocation History

Traditional: Lesser sites; Chardonnay gets best

Modern: Quality sites proving variety potential

Bouzeron: Dedicated appellation

Wine Profile

Appearance

Color: Pale straw with green tints
Intensity: Light
Evolution: Best young; can age in top sites

Aromatic Profile

Primary Aromas:

Citrus (lemon, grapefruit)
Green apple
Herbaceous notes
White flowers (subtle)
Mineral

Character: Fresh; lean; zippy

Palate Characteristics

Structure:

Light body
Very high acidity (signature)
Lean, crisp texture
Mineral finish

Texture: Sharp; refreshing; cutting

Finish: Short to medium; citrus, mineral

Regional Expressions

Bouzeron AOC

Status: Only village appellation for Aligoté

Location: Côte Chalonnaise

Character: Best expressions; mineral; age-worthy

Quality: Proves variety’s potential

Bourgogne Aligoté AOC

Coverage: Regional Burgundy

Quality: Variable; simple to good

Usage: Everyday; Kir base

Eastern Europe

Moldova: Significant plantings

Romania/Bulgaria: Traditional cultivation

Character: Different expressions; often simpler

Winemaking Considerations

Fermentation

Temperature: Cool (14-16°C)

Duration: Standard

Vessel: Stainless steel dominant

Goal: Preserve acidity; freshness

Acidity Management

Natural Acidity: Very high; characteristic

MLF: Sometimes blocked for extra crispness

Balance: High acid = aging potential (good examples)

Oak Usage

Traditional: No oak (standard)

Modern Exception: Some barrel-fermented Bouzeron

Philosophy: Freshness priority

Quality Approaches

Bouzeron Style: Old vines; lower yields; complexity

Standard: Simple, fresh, immediate

Food Pairing

Traditional Matches

Burgundian Cuisine:

Gougères (cheese puffs)
Escargots
Fresh goat cheese
Shellfish

Acidity Advantage: Cuts through richness

Kir Tradition

Classic Kir: Aligoté + crème de cassis

Variations: Other fruit liqueurs

Service: Aperitif classic

Modern Applications

Oysters: Excellent; high acid

Light Seafood: Natural pairing

Aperitif: Refreshing solo

Temperature: Well-chilled (8-10°C)

Key Producers

Bouzeron Specialists

Domaine de Villaine: Benchmark quality (A. de Villaine of DRC)

Domaine Chanzy: Quality producer

Various Côte Chalonnaise estates

Regional Burgundy

Various producers: Quality variable

Market Position

Production Statistics

Burgundy Plantings: ~1,800 hectares

Eastern Europe: Significant (Moldova leading)

Trend: Stable in Burgundy; declining in Eastern Europe

Pricing

Level	Price (€)
Regional	€8-14
Bouzeron	€14-25
Premium Bouzeron	€20-35

Market Position

Perception: Improving; still undervalued

Strength: Freshness; value; unique character

Challenge: Chardonnay dominance

Comparison with Burgundy Whites

Variety	Acidity	Body	Character
Aligoté	Very high	Light	Crisp, mineral
Chardonnay	Medium-high	Medium-full	Complex, versatile

The Quality Question

Can Aligoté Be Great?

Evidence: Top Bouzeron; old vine expressions

Requirements: Good sites; old vines; low yields

Character: Different from Chardonnay; refreshing excellence

Modern Recognition

Aubert de Villaine: DRC co-owner champions Aligoté

Effect: Quality perception improving

Eastern European Context

Historical Importance

Moldova: Major cultivar historically

Soviet Era: Significant production

Modern: Quality focus emerging

Different Expression

Climate: Continental; different character

Style: Often simpler; high volume

Conclusion

Aligoté may be Burgundy’s second white grape, but quality examples from Bouzeron and dedicated producers prove the variety capable of producing wines of genuine character and refreshing excellence. For enologists, Aligoté demonstrates that high-acid varieties can produce compelling wines when given quality sites and appropriate attention. The variety’s role in the Kir cocktail has both promoted and pigeonholed it, but modern recognition of quality potential is challenging preconceptions. Whether enjoyed as a crisp aperitif or as a serious Bouzeron, Aligoté offers a refreshing alternative to Chardonnay’s richness and deserves wider appreciation.

References

Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012). “Wine Grapes.” Ecco/HarperCollins. Publisher Link
BIVB Burgundy Wine Board. Documentation.
VIVC Database. Variety Information.

Last updated: January 13, 2026