Furmint
Also known as: Šipon, Mosler, Som, Moslavac, Zapfner
Furmint
Summary
Furmint is Hungary’s most important white grape variety, responsible for the legendary sweet wines of Tokaj, considered among the world’s greatest dessert wines and favored by European royalty for centuries. With approximately 4,500 hectares planted, the variety’s thin skin makes it exceptionally susceptible to botrytis (noble rot) development, while its naturally high acidity provides the essential backbone for both sweet and dry styles. Furmint’s ability to express terroir, develop extraordinary complexity through botrytization, and age gracefully for decades positions it among the world’s great white grape varieties. The ongoing dry Furmint renaissance has revealed the variety’s potential beyond sweet wines, producing mineral-driven whites from volcanic soils.
Identity & Synonyms
VIVC: Entry #4527
Berry Color: BLANC
Primary Synonyms:
- Šipon (Slovenia - Štajerska region)
- Mosler (Austria, historical)
- Som (historical Hungarian)
- Moslavac (Croatia)
- Zapfner (Austrian historical)
Name Origin: Possibly from Hungarian “furmány” (freight wagon) or from the wheat-gold color of ripe berries; etymology disputed.
Genetic Origin
Origin: Hungary (possibly Croatian origin)
Historical Documentation:
- First documented in Tokaj in the 16th century
- May have arrived earlier via Croatian migrations
- The Tokaj wine region was formally classified in 1737 (world’s first classified wine region)
Parentage: Unknown; ancient Pannonian variety
Related Varieties:
- Hárslevelű (traditional Tokaj blending partner)
- Possibly related to varieties in the Croatian-Hungarian basin
Global Distribution
Total Global Plantings: ~4,500 hectares
| Country | Hectares | Primary Regions |
|---|---|---|
| Hungary | ~4,000 | Tokaj, Somló, Badacsony |
| Slovenia | ~400 | Štajerska (as Šipon) |
| Austria | ~50 | Burgenland (limited) |
| Slovakia | ~50 | Tokaj zone (shared region) |
Viticulture
Growth Characteristics
- Vigor: Medium to high
- Growth Habit: Semi-erect
- Budbreak: Medium (some frost risk)
- Flowering: Mid-season
- Véraison: Late
- Harvest: Late (October) to very late (November for Aszú)
Cluster and Berry
- Cluster Size: Medium, conical
- Cluster Density: Loose to medium (ideal for botrytis)
- Berry Size: Medium
- Skin Thickness: THIN (critical for noble rot development)
- Skin Color: Green-yellow, becoming golden-amber when botrytized
Climate Requirements
- Ideal Climate: Continental with specific autumn conditions
- Heat Summation: 1,400-1,700 GDD (base 10°C)
- Critical Autumn Conditions: Morning mists followed by sunny afternoons (botrytis)
- The Tokaj Microclimate:
- Bodrog and Tisza river confluence creates mists
- Southern-facing volcanic slopes maximize sun
- Long, dry autumns allow noble rot development
The Tokaj Terroir
- Geology: Volcanic soils (rhyolite, andesite, zeolites)
- Classification: First classified wine region (1737)
- Altitude: 100-250m
- Unique Feature: Volcanic cellar systems (ideal for aging)
Soil Preferences
- Ideal: Volcanic soils (nyirok clay, zeolite-rich)
- Somló: Basalt volcanic (distinct minerality)
- Effect: Volcanic minerals contribute smoky, flinty character
- Drainage: Good drainage essential
Disease Susceptibility
- Botrytis cinerea: VERY HIGH susceptibility (beneficial)
- Downy Mildew: Moderate susceptibility
- Powdery Mildew: Moderate susceptibility
- Esca: Moderate
Viticultural Management
- Training: Single or double Guyot; cordon
- Pruning: Moderate bud load
- Yield Control: Essential for quality
- Selective Harvest: Multiple passes for Aszú (hand-selecting botrytized berries)
- Timing: Harvest decisions critical for style
The Aszú Harvest
Producing Tokaji Aszú requires:
- Multiple selective passes through vineyard
- Hand-picking individual botrytized berries (aszú berries)
- Separation from healthy grapes
- Traditional measurement in “puttonyos” (baskets)
Enology
Must Parameters at Harvest
| Style | Brix | pH | TA (g/L) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry | 21-24° | 3.0-3.3 | 7-10 |
| Szamorodni (sweet) | 25-30° | 3.2-3.5 | 6-9 |
| Aszú | 35-50+° | 3.3-3.8 | 6-10 |
| Eszencia | 60-80+° | 3.5-4.0 | 5-10 |
Acidity Profile
- Tartaric Acid: High baseline
- Malic Acid: High (partially retained)
- Citric Acid: Present
- Significance: Acidity balances sweetness in Aszú; fresh character in dry
Phenolic Profile
- Hydroxycinnamic Acids: Moderate
- Browning Potential: Moderate (requires careful oxidation management)
- Botrytis Effects: Noble rot oxidase can cause browning; controlled oxidation traditional
Aroma Compounds
| Compound Class | Dry Furmint | Aszú (Botrytized) |
|---|---|---|
| Terpenes | Linalool, geraniol | Reduced by botrytis |
| Norisoprenoids | β-damascenone | Enhanced |
| Lactones | Minor | Sotolon (characteristic) |
| Aldehydes | Minor | Acetaldehyde (oxidative) |
Sotolon: The Aszú Signature
- Origin: Formed during botrytization and aging
- Aroma: Curry, maple syrup, dried apricots
- Threshold: Very low (detectable at ppb levels)
- Significance: Defines the Aszú character
Fermentation
Dry Furmint
- Yeast Selection: Neutral or wild yeasts
- Temperature: 16-20°C
- Duration: 14-28 days
- Vessel: Stainless steel or oak (traditional)
- MLF: Optional (often blocked for freshness)
Tokaji Aszú
- Process: Aszú berries macerated in base wine or must
- Maceration: 24-72 hours
- Fermentation: Slow, often months
- Challenge: High sugar (fermentation may stop naturally)
- Residual Sugar: 120-250+ g/L (style dependent)
Traditional vs. Modern Approaches
| Aspect | Traditional | Modern |
|---|---|---|
| Oxidation | Controlled oxidative aging | Reductive handling |
| Vessels | Old oak barrels (gönci) | Mix of stainless and oak |
| Color | Deep golden/amber | Lighter gold |
| Character | Nutty, oxidative complexity | Fresh, fruit-forward |
Tokaji Wine Styles
| Style | Sugar (g/L) | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Dry Furmint | <9 | Mineral, citrus, age-worthy |
| Szamorodni Száraz (dry) | <9 | Complex, nutty |
| Szamorodni Édes (sweet) | >45 | Sweet, balanced |
| Aszú 5 Puttonyos | 120-150 | Noble rot, honey, apricot |
| Aszú 6 Puttonyos | 150-180 | Richer, more concentrated |
| Eszencia | 450+ | Nectar; honey; extreme |
Sensory Profile
Dry Furmint
Visual
- Pale gold to medium gold
- Greenish hints when young
- Brilliant clarity
Aromatic
| Category | Descriptors |
|---|---|
| Citrus | Lemon, lime, grapefruit |
| Fruit | Green apple, quince, pear |
| Mineral | Smoke, flint, volcanic |
| Floral | Chamomile, elderflower |
| Spice | White pepper, ginger |
Palate
- Body: Medium to full
- Acidity: HIGH (defining feature)
- Texture: Mineral, linear
- Finish: Long, smoky, persistent
Tokaji Aszú
Visual
- Deep gold to amber
- Mahogany tints with age
- Oily, viscous tears
Aromatic
| Category | Descriptors |
|---|---|
| Fruit | Dried apricot, orange marmalade, candied citrus |
| Botrytis | Honey, honeycomb, beeswax |
| Spice | Saffron, cinnamon, ginger |
| Oxidative | Caramel, toffee, nuts |
| Evolved | Tea, tobacco, leather |
| Signature | Sotolon (curry/maple) |
Palate
- Body: Full to very full
- Sweetness: High (balanced by acidity)
- Acidity: HIGH (essential balance)
- Texture: Unctuous, oily
- Finish: Extremely long (minutes)
- Aging: 50-100+ years
Winemaker Considerations
Challenges
- Weather Dependency: Botrytis requires specific conditions
- Labor Intensity: Aszú production labor-intensive
- Fermentation Management: Very high sugar difficult
- Oxidation Control: Balance traditional vs. modern
- Market Position: Communicating value of aged wines
Opportunities
- Dry Furmint Renaissance: Growing market interest
- Unique Terroir: Volcanic character distinctive
- Historical Prestige: Royal wine heritage
- Aging Potential: Among world’s longest-lived wines
- Food Versatility: From aperitif to dessert
Winemaking Tips
- For dry: preserve acidity and mineral character
- For Aszú: allow sufficient maceration time
- Balance oxidative and reductive techniques
- Extended lees contact adds complexity
- Traditional gönci barrels for authentic character
Key Appellations
Tokaj (Tokaji)
- Status: PDO (Protected Designation of Origin)
- Historical: First classified wine region (1737)
- Grapes: Furmint (dominant), Hárslevelű, Sárgamuskotály
- Styles: Dry, Szamorodni, Aszú, Eszencia
- Significance: One of world’s legendary sweet wine regions
Somló
- Location: Western Hungary
- Soil: Basalt volcanic
- Style: Dry, powerful, mineral
- Character: Distinct from Tokaj; more austere
Slovenia (Štajerska)
- Name: Šipon
- Style: Predominantly dry
- Character: Fresh, mineral
Food Pairing
Dry Furmint
- Freshwater fish
- Goose liver (traditional Hungarian)
- Rich poultry dishes
- Creamy sauces
- Aged hard cheeses
Tokaji Aszú
- Classic: Foie gras
- Blue cheeses (Roquefort, Stilton)
- Fruit-based desserts
- Crème brûlée
- Dark chocolate
- On its own as meditation wine
Comparison with Other Botrytis Varieties
| Characteristic | Furmint (Aszú) | Sémillon (Sauternes) | Riesling (TBA) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Primary Character | Apricot/saffron | Honey/citrus | Apricot/petrol |
| Acidity | Very High | Medium | Very High |
| Signature Compound | Sotolon | Botrytis lactones | TDN |
| Aging | 50-100+ years | 30-50 years | 30-50 years |
| Traditional Style | Oxidative | Fresh | Fresh |
Sources
- Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012). Wine Grapes. Ecco/HarperCollins. Publisher Link
- VIVC Database - Vitis International Variety Catalogue
- Tokaj Wine Region Marketing Association
- Lőrincz, A., & Barócsi, Z. (2010). A Tokaji. Mezőgazda Kiadó. WorldCat
- Masneuf-Pomarède, I., et al. (2006). Botrytis and wine quality. Journal of Applied Microbiology 100(4). Wiley Link
Last Updated: January 13, 2026