Pecorino

Summary

Pecorino is a central Italian white grape variety experiencing a remarkable renaissance after near-extinction in the mid-20th century. Rescued from oblivion in the 1980s by a handful of dedicated producers who found surviving vines in the mountains between Marche and Abruzzo, Pecorino now covers approximately 1,500 hectares and produces distinctive, aromatic wines with excellent structure and aging potential. The variety’s name derives from sheep (“pecora” in Italian)—legend says the grapes were so sweet and early-ripening that sheep would seek them out in the vineyard. Pecorino combines the freshness of northern Italian whites with the structure and intensity of southern varieties, offering remarkable value.

Identity & Synonyms

VIVC: Entry #9049
Berry Color: BLANC

Primary Synonyms:

Arquitano (historical name in Marche)
Pecorella (diminutive form)
Uva Pecorino (full name)
Uva degli Abruzzi (Abruzzo reference)

Name Origin: From Italian “pecora” (sheep). According to local tradition, the early-ripening, sweet grapes attracted sheep to the vineyard. The variety is NOT related to Pecorino cheese despite sharing a name derived from sheep.

Genetic Origin

Origin: Central Italy (mountains between Marche and Abruzzo)

Historical: Ancient variety, documented historically but declined sharply in the 20th century due to phylloxera, world wars, and preference for higher-yielding varieties.

Near Extinction: By the 1980s, reduced to a handful of old vines in remote mountain vineyards.

Rescue: Pioneering producers (notably Guido Cocci Grifoni, Tenuta Cocci Grifoni) identified surviving vines and began propagation efforts in the 1980s-1990s.

Parentage: Unknown ancient variety; genetic studies have not identified parents.

Global Distribution

Total Global Plantings: ~1,500 hectares

Region	Hectares	Notes
Marche	~1,000	Primary region; Offida DOCG
Abruzzo	~500	Growing rapidly
Other	Minimal	Experimental

Growth: From near extinction (~50 vines) in 1980s to 1,500 hectares—one of Italian viticulture’s great success stories.

Viticulture

Growth Characteristics

Vigor: Medium
Growth Habit: Semi-erect
Budbreak: Early to medium
Flowering: Mid-season
Véraison: Early to medium
Harvest: EARLY (August-early September)—key characteristic

Cluster and Berry

Cluster Size: Small to medium, conical
Cluster Density: Medium
Berry Size: Small to medium
Skin Thickness: Medium (good aromatic extraction)
Skin Color: Green-yellow, golden when ripe

Climate Requirements

Ideal Climate: Continental with Mediterranean influence
Heat Summation: 1,400-1,800 GDD (base 10°C)
Altitude: Often high (400-700m)
Key Feature: Early harvest avoids autumn humidity
Diurnal Variation: High-altitude sites provide good temperature swings

The Mountain Origin

Pecorino’s survival in mountain vineyards explains its character:

Altitude: Original vines at 400-700m
Climate: Cooler, drier than coastal areas
Effect: Natural acidity preservation
Character: Mineral, structured wines

Soil Preferences

Ideal: Calcareous clay-limestone
Traditional: Mountain soils with good drainage
Effect: Limestone enhances mineral character
Drainage: Good drainage essential

Disease Susceptibility

Downy Mildew: Moderate susceptibility
Powdery Mildew: Moderate susceptibility
Botrytis: Low risk (early harvest, open clusters)
Drought: Moderate tolerance

Viticultural Management

Training: Guyot or modified cordon
Pruning: Moderate bud load
Yield Control: Important for quality; 8-10 tonnes/ha
Canopy Management: Open canopy for air circulation
Harvest Timing: Critical—monitor acidity retention

Rootstock Compatibility

Preferred: 420A, SO4
Compatible: 110R, 1103P
Consideration: Match to calcareous soils

Enology

Must Parameters at Harvest

Parameter	Optimal Range	Notes
Brix	21-24°	Moderate to good sugar
pH	3.1-3.4	LOW—characteristic
Titratable Acidity	6.0-8.0 g/L	HIGH—key feature
YAN	180-250 mg/L	Generally adequate

Acidity Profile

Pecorino’s distinctive acidity:

Tartaric Acid: High baseline
Malic Acid: Significant retention
Effect: Fresh character; aging potential

Aroma Compounds

Terpenes: Moderate (floral notes)
Thiols: Present (citrus/tropical potential)
C13-Norisoprenoids: β-damascenone (stone fruit)
Esters: Fruity fermentation aromatics

Fermentation

Yeast Selection: Aromatic yeasts or wild fermentation
Temperature: 16-20°C
Duration: 14-28 days
Vessel: Stainless steel (fresh) or oak (structured)
Lees Contact: Extended (4-8 months) common

Malolactic Fermentation

Fresh Style: Usually blocked
Structured Style: Partial MLF optional
Effect: Blocking preserves freshness; partial adds complexity

Oak Treatment

Style	Oak Use	Effect
Fresh/Crisp	None	Preserve fruit/mineral
Structured	Neutral large oak	Add texture
Premium	Barrique fermented	Complexity, age-worthiness

Aging Potential

Fresh Style: 1-3 years
Premium: 3-8 years
Best Examples: 10+ years
Evolution: Develops honey, nuts, complexity

Sensory Profile

Young Pecorino

Visual

Intensity: Pale to medium
Hue: Straw with green hints
Clarity: Brilliant

Aromatic Profile

Category	Descriptors
Floral	White flowers, elderflower, acacia
Fruit	Citrus (lemon, grapefruit), green apple, pear
Stone Fruit	White peach, apricot
Herbal	Mediterranean herbs, thyme
Mineral	Chalky, flinty, saline

Palate

Body: Medium to full
Acidity: HIGH (fresh, vibrant)
Texture: Structured, mineral
Finish: Long, mineral, often saline
Alcohol: Moderate to high (12.5-14%)

Aged Pecorino

Character

Deeper gold color
Honey and nut development
Maintained acidity
Increased complexity

Winemaker Considerations

Challenges

Early Harvest: Requires careful timing
New Variety: Limited established protocols
Market Position: Consumer unfamiliarity
Consistency: Clonal variation (rescue created genetic diversity)
Acidity Management: Very high—may need balancing

Opportunities

Unique Story: Rescue narrative compelling
Quality Potential: Serious, age-worthy white
Value: Underpriced for quality
Food Versatility: Excellent gastronomic wine
Market Growth: Rising interest in Italian indigenous varieties

Winemaking Tips

Monitor acidity closely—harvest timing critical
Extended lees contact adds complexity
Consider partial MLF for premium cuvées
Stainless steel preserves freshness
Allow time for wine to integrate (release after 6-12 months)

Key Appellations

Offida DOCG

Established: 2011 (upgraded from DOC)
Location: Marche (province of Ascoli Piceno)
Varietal: Minimum 85% Pecorino
Yield: Maximum 10 tonnes/ha
Minimum Alcohol: 11.5%
Status: Benchmark appellation for Pecorino

Falerio DOC

Location: Southern Marche
Pecorino Role: Authorized variety; often blended
Character: Fresh, everyday style

Abruzzo DOC

Pecorino IGT/DOC: Expanding
Style: Fresh, aromatic
Growth: Fastest-growing Pecorino zone

Terre di Offida DOC

Location: Marche
Style: Various including Pecorino

The Rescue Story

Pecorino’s rescue is one of Italian wine’s great preservation stories:

Timeline:

Pre-20th Century: Widely planted in Marche/Abruzzo mountains
Early 1900s: Decline due to phylloxera, emigration
Mid-20th Century: Near extinction; <100 vines surviving
1980s: Guido Cocci Grifoni begins rescue efforts
1990s: Propagation and commercial planting begins
2000s: DOC recognition; rapid expansion
2011: DOCG status for Offida Pecorino
Today: ~1,500 hectares; one of Italy’s most exciting white varieties

Food Pairing

Pecorino’s structure suits substantial dishes:

Grilled seafood
Pasta with fish sauces
White meat and light poultry
Aged hard cheeses (not named Pecorino cheese!)
Risotto
Vegetable dishes with herbs
Fritto misto

Regional Pairing

Olive ascolane (stuffed olives—local specialty)
Brodetto (Adriatic fish stew)
Vincisgrassi (local lasagna variant)

Comparison with Central Italian Whites

Characteristic	Pecorino	Verdicchio	Trebbiano
Acidity	High	High	Medium
Body	Medium-Full	Medium	Light-Medium
Aromatics	Medium-High	Medium	Low
Age-Worthiness	5-10 years	5-10 years	1-3 years
Character	Structured, mineral	Almond, fresh	Neutral

Sources

Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012). Wine Grapes. Ecco/HarperCollins. Publisher Link
VIVC Database - Vitis International Variety Catalogue
Consorzio Tutela Vini Piceni
D’Agata, I. (2014). Native Wine Grapes of Italy. University of California Press. Publisher Link
Ferretti, M., et al. (2015). Recovery and characterization of Pecorino. OENO One 49(1). OENO Link

Last Updated: January 13, 2026