Xinomavro
Also known as: Xynomavro, Popolka, Mavro Naoussis
Xinomavro
Quick Facts
- Berry Color: Blue-black (Mavro = black)
- Skin Thickness: Thick
- Ripening: Late
- Vigor: Moderate to high
- Yield: Low to moderate
- Tannin: High
- Acidity: High
Overview
Xinomavro (pronounced ksee-NO-mav-ro) is Greece’s most noble red grape variety and one of the world’s most underrated fine wine grapes. Often compared to Nebbiolo for its high acidity, firm tannins, pale color, and exceptional aging potential, Xinomavro produces structured, aromatic wines that rank among the Mediterranean’s finest reds. Native to northern Greece’s Macedonia region, the variety reaches its highest expression in the Naoussa PDO, where it produces wines of remarkable complexity and longevity. For enologists, Xinomavro represents an important study in high-acid, high-tannin winemaking and the management of varieties that require extended aging to show their best.
Etymology and History
Name Origin
Xino (ξινό): Greek for “sour” or “acidic”
Mavro (μαύρο): Greek for “black”
Translation: “Acid-black” - referring to acidity and dark color
Historical Development
- Ancient cultivation in northern Greece
- Traditional presence in Macedonia
- Quality recognition from 19th century
- Naoussa PDO established 1971 (first Greek PDO)
- International attention 21st century
- “Greek Nebbiolo” comparison driving interest
Naoussa Tradition
Heritage: Centuries of quality winemaking
First PDO: Greece’s inaugural protected region
Significance: Xinomavro’s defining terroir
Viticulture
Vine Characteristics
Growth Habit: Moderately vigorous; upright
Leaf Shape: Large; five-lobed; deeply cut
Cluster: Medium; cylindrical; compact
Berry: Small to medium; thick-skinned; blue-black
Growing Requirements
Climate: Continental; cold winters; warm summers
Altitude: 150-700 meters optimal
Soil Preference: Clay-limestone; schist; sand
Training: Guyot typical; traditional bush also
Phenological Stages
| Stage | Timing |
|---|---|
| Bud break | Late April |
| Flowering | Early June |
| Véraison | Mid-August |
| Harvest | Early-mid October |
Challenges
Late Ripening: Needs long season
Disease: Susceptible to botrytis
Yield Management: Essential for quality
Full Ripeness: Achieving phenolic maturity critical
Wine Profile
Appearance
- Color: Pale ruby (deceptively light)
- Intensity: Light to medium (like Nebbiolo)
- Evolution: Orange-brown with age (rapidly)
Aromatic Profile
Primary Aromas:
- Red fruits (sour cherry, raspberry, strawberry)
- Tomato leaf (signature)
- Olive, sun-dried tomato
- Floral (rose, violet)
Secondary/Tertiary:
- Leather, tobacco
- Dried fruit, prune
- Earth, truffle
- Game, forest floor
- Tar, smoke
Palate Characteristics
Structure:
- Medium body
- High acidity (signature)
- Firm tannins (requires aging)
- Complex, layered
Texture: Taut; austere when young; silky with age
Finish: Long; persistent; tannic backbone
The Nebbiolo Comparison
Similarities
| Characteristic | Xinomavro | Nebbiolo |
|---|---|---|
| Color | Pale ruby | Pale ruby |
| Acidity | High | High |
| Tannin | High | High |
| Aging | 10-30+ years | 10-50+ years |
| Tomato note | Yes | Yes |
| Tar/rose | Yes | Yes |
Differences
Xinomavro: More olive/sun-dried tomato; earthier
Nebbiolo: More floral; tar more pronounced
Climate: Xinomavro in warmer conditions
Regional Expressions
Naoussa PDO
Status: Greece’s first PDO; benchmark
Terroir: Clay-limestone slopes; Mt. Vermion
Altitude: 150-400 meters
Character: Structured; age-worthy; classic expression
Requirements: 100% Xinomavro; minimum 12 months aging
Amyndeon PDO
Location: Northwest Macedonia; high altitude (620-700m)
Climate: Cooler; lake influence
Character: More elegant; aromatic; earlier drinking
Rosé: Excellent rosé production
Goumenissa PDO
Blend: Xinomavro (minimum 70%) + Negoska
Character: Softer; more approachable
Style: Medium-term aging
Rapsani PDO
Location: Mt. Olympus slopes
Blend: Xinomavro + Krassato + Stavroto
Character: Unique; mountain influence
Winemaking Considerations
Fermentation
Temperature: Moderate (24-28°C)
Duration: Extended maceration beneficial
Vessel: Stainless steel; concrete; wood
Challenge: Extracting color from pale-skinned variety
Extraction
Approach: Extended; firm extraction needed
Technique: Pump-overs; punch-down
Duration: 20-35 days common
Goal: Build structure while managing harsh tannins
Aging
Oak Traditional:
- Large Slavonian oak (traditional)
- French oak (modern)
- 12-36 months typical
Bottle Aging: Essential; 5-10 years minimum for best wines
Potential: 20-30+ years for top examples
Oxidation Tendency
Challenge: Variety prone to oxidation
Management: Protective winemaking or embrace
Style Choice: Fresh modern vs. oxidative traditional
Food Pairing
Traditional Matches
Greek Cuisine:
- Lamb (roasted, grilled)
- Goat dishes
- Game birds
- Aged hard cheeses (Graviera, Kasseri)
- Mushroom dishes
Acidity Advantage: Cuts through fat; versatile
Modern Applications
Aged Wines: Complex dishes; truffles; game
Young Wines: Chill slightly; lighter preparations
Temperature: 16-18°C
Key Producers
Naoussa Leaders
Kir-Yianni: Benchmark producer; multiple expressions
Boutari: Historic; quality range
Thymiopoulos Vineyards: Organic; quality focus
Dalamara: Family estate; premium quality
Karydas: Traditional excellence
Other Regions
Alpha Estate (Amyndeon): Innovative; quality
Dougos (Rapsani): Mt. Olympus specialist
Tatsis (Goumenissa): Traditional quality
Market Position
Production Statistics
Greek Plantings: ~2,000 hectares
Primary Region: Macedonia (>90%)
Trend: Stable; quality focus increasing
Pricing
| Level | Price (€) |
|---|---|
| Entry | €10-18 |
| Quality PDO | €18-35 |
| Premium/Reserve | €35-60 |
| Icon/Aged | €60-150+ |
Market Recognition
Status: Growing international acclaim
Challenge: Requires education; not immediate appeal
Opportunity: Age-worthy quality at reasonable prices
Aging Potential
Development Stages
Young (0-5 years): Austere; tannic; challenging
Developing (5-10 years): Opening; complexity emerging
Mature (10-20 years): Peak; integrated; complex
Aged (20+ years): Secondary/tertiary; ethereal
Cellaring Recommendations
Entry Wines: 3-8 years
Quality PDO: 8-15 years
Premium: 15-25+ years
Icon: 20-30+ years possible
Comparison with Greek Reds
| Variety | Body | Tannin | Acidity | Aging |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Xinomavro | Medium | High | High | Long |
| Agiorgitiko | Medium-full | Medium | Medium | Medium |
| Mavrodaphne | Full | Medium | Medium | Long |
| Limnio | Medium | Low-medium | Medium | Short |
Climate Considerations
Current Conditions
Macedonia Climate: Continental; suitable for variety
Challenges: Climate change; earlier ripening
Adaptation: Higher altitudes; vineyard management
Future Outlook
Advantage: High natural acidity
Risk: Over-ripeness; alcohol creep
Strategy: Site selection; earlier harvest
Conclusion
Xinomavro stands as Greece’s answer to Nebbiolo—a noble red variety capable of producing wines of extraordinary complexity, structure, and longevity. For enologists, the grape presents classic challenges of high-acid, high-tannin winemaking, requiring careful extraction and extended aging to reveal its full potential. The comparison to Nebbiolo, while not exact, serves to highlight Xinomavro’s quality potential and its deserved place among the world’s great red varieties. As international recognition grows, Xinomavro offers remarkable value for wines of genuine complexity and aging potential—a treasure waiting to be discovered by serious wine enthusiasts.
References
- Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012). “Wine Grapes.” Ecco/HarperCollins. Publisher Link
- Lazarakis, K. (2018). “The Wines of Greece.” Infinite Ideas. Publisher Link
- Wines of Greece. Official Documentation.
- VIVC Database. Variety Information.
Last updated: January 13, 2026