País
Also known as: Listán Prieto, Mission, Criolla Chica, Negra Peruana
País
Quick Facts
- Berry Color: Blue-black
- Skin Thickness: Thin
- Ripening: Mid-season
- Vigor: High
- Yield: High
- History: First European grape in Americas
- Identity: = Listán Prieto = Mission = Criolla Chica
Overview
País (known as Mission in California, Listán Prieto in Spain, and Criolla Chica in Argentina) is the historic grape that Spanish missionaries brought to the Americas in the 16th century, making it the first Vitis vinifera cultivated in the New World. Long dismissed as producing simple, rustic wines, País has experienced a remarkable revival in Chile, where old-vine plantings in southern regions like Maule and Itata produce wines of genuine character and interest. For enologists, País represents important study in historic grape varieties, dry-farmed old vine viticulture, and the reassessment of previously undervalued varieties.
Etymology and History
Name Origin
País: Spanish for “country” (local/native grape)
Mission: California name (missionary introduction)
Listán Prieto: Original Spanish name (dark Listán)
Historical Journey
- Origin: Canary Islands (Spain) — see also Climate Change Viticulture for adaptation strategies
- 1540s: Brought to Peru/Chile by missionaries
- 1700s: Reached California (Mission grape)
- Colonial Era: Dominant American grape
- Modern: Revival in Chile
Colonial Importance
Role: First wine grape in Americas
Spread: Throughout Spanish colonies
Status: Dominant for 300+ years
Decline: Replaced by international varieties
Viticulture
Vine Characteristics
Growth Habit: Vigorous; productive
Leaf Shape: Large
Cluster: Large; loose
Berry: Medium; thin-skinned
Growing Requirements
Climate: Mediterranean to warm
Soil Preference: Various; adaptable
Water: Drought tolerant (old vines)
Training: Often traditional bush vine
Old Vine Heritage
Chile: Vines 100-200+ years old
Character: Dry-farmed; low yields
Value: Concentration; complexity
Phenological Stages
| Stage | Timing (Chile) |
|---|---|
| Bud break | September |
| Flowering | November |
| Véraison | January |
| Harvest | March-April |
Wine Profile
Traditional/Simple Style
Color: Light ruby
Character: Simple; light; rustic
Quality: Basic everyday wine
Modern/Quality Revival
Color: Medium ruby
Aromas: Red fruit, herbs, earth
Palate: Fresh; moderate tannin; mineral
Character: Site-expressive; interesting
Regional Expressions
Chilean Southern Valleys
Maule: Quality revival center
Itata: Old vine concentration
Bío-Bío: Southern expression
Character: Freshness; acidity; mineral
Historic California
Mission Grape: Nearly extinct
Status: Museum curiosity
Modern: Tiny production
Argentina
As Criolla Chica: Parent of Criolla Grande
Status: Minor; mostly replaced
Winemaking Considerations
Traditional Approach
Method: Simple; immediate
Result: Basic wine; local consumption
Modern Quality Approach
Old Vines: Essential for quality
Yields: Very low
Fermentation: Careful; cool
Result: Complex; site-expressive
The Revival Philosophy
Rediscovery: Value in old vines
Terroir: Southern Chile uniqueness
Natural Wine: Movement embraces País
Food Pairing
Chilean Cuisine
Matches:
- Empanadas
- Simple grilled meats
- Country cooking
- Casual meals
Character: Food-friendly; refreshing
Temperature
Serving: Slightly chilled (14-16°C)
Key Producers
Chilean Revival Leaders
Bouchon: Quality pioneer
De Martino: Old vine expressions
Louis-Antoine Luyt: Natural wine advocate
Various Maule/Itata producers: Growing movement
Market Position
Production Statistics
Chile: ~10,000 hectares (declining)
Character: Large but quality-focused declining
Old Vines: Increasingly valued
Pricing
| Style | Price (€/USD) |
|---|---|
| Entry | €5-10 / $6-12 |
| Quality/Old Vine | €12-25 / $15-30 |
| Premium | €25-45 / $30-55 |
Market Position
Recognition: Growing internationally
Strength: Uniqueness; history; value
Challenge: Quality perception; unfamiliarity
The Revival Story
Catalyst
Reassessment: Quality potential recognized
Old Vines: Irreplaceable heritage
Movement: Natural wine; terroir focus
Results
Quality: Genuine improvement
Recognition: International interest
Future: Preservation; premium positioning
Historical Significance
First Americas Wine
Impact: Founded New World wine culture
Spread: From Mexico to Chile
Legacy: 400+ years of history
Genetic Importance
Parent: To Torrontés (with Muscat)
Ancestor: To other Criolla grapes
Heritage: American wine DNA
Conclusion
País represents one of wine’s great historical grapes—the variety that introduced winemaking to the Americas and is now experiencing a remarkable quality revival in Chile. For enologists, País demonstrates the value of reassessing previously dismissed varieties and the irreplaceable resource represented by old-vine vineyards. The Chilean revival shows how old-vine País can produce wines of genuine character and terroir expression, offering a unique window into pre-phylloxera viticulture and colonial wine heritage. As appreciation for authenticity and history grows, País deserves recognition as both historical treasure and contemporary quality grape.
References
- Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012). “Wine Grapes.” Ecco/HarperCollins. Publisher Link
- Wines of Chile. Official Documentation.
- VIVC Database. Variety Information.
Last updated: January 13, 2026